Distance 10 miles we made it 6.75.
Many people start their Camino in Roncesvalles. Knowing what we know now after our experience getting here from Valcarlos we also would have started here in Roncesvalles. The trek from St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles through Valcarlos is considered the hardest and most dangerous of the Camino. It is a long day with no places to bail out for the day if you’re in trouble and too tired.
The way from Valcarlos is all on the road which goes up steeply for 10 miles. You have to hope you are on a safe part of the road when a truck comes and you pray for good weather. Well we woke up in Valcarlos to steady rain and cold weather. We didn’t want to leave but we had to.
This was easily the worst hike of our experiences anywhere. Walking wasn’t that hard because of the steepness but the rain made it really miserable and with stress of the traffic our pace slowed terribly. Our so called waterproof North Face jackets failed and around 6.75 miles we were soaked, walking at 1.2 mph and the temperature was getting into the low 40’s. We were in trouble. Just then a taxi was coming up the hill and we waved it down and he drove us the next 3.5 miles. Thank you God.
(Post-Camino update) – Repeated BELOW – Please do not walk along this road even if the weather is favorable. This was really dangerous – just take a taxi for this section and stay alive and enjoy the next 800 Km.
The albergue here is pretty famous. It is one of the nicest you can find and sits adjecant to the historic church.
They allowed us to check in at 2pm and then we immediately hit a warm shower to stop the early warning of hypothermia. The bed arrangement gave us some privacy.
Dinner was included for the pilgrims at 7pm and then the pilgrims Mass started at 8pm. There were about 70 people staying at the place. Our dinner table for 7 had 3 from England, 1 from Germany, 1 from France and us. I was surprised to see in the room so much age diversity from about 20 years to 70. At the Mass the priest read the countries representes for this evening and he read off about 8 countries.
About 20 attended Mass and the afterwards the Pastor gave us a tour of the Church. It was built in the 1200’s and was the first Gothic church in Spain.
The tour ended with a special visit to the crypt below the altar. Only pilgrims and clergy can visit the crypt.
So the day ended well and we have to be thankful that we were in good hands along the way today. The weather tomorrow is uncertain. If you know anyone considering the Camino tell them to skip St Jean Pied de Port!
(Post-Camino update) – Please do not walk along this road even if the weather is favorable. This was really dangerous – just take a taxi for this section and stay alive and enjoy the next 800 Km.